secret

Kep

On the Cambodian Coast Romance Rises from the Ashes of War

For great food and atmosphere, follow the French. 

The most romantic bungalows in Southeast Asia are tucked high on a hillside overlooking the bullet scarred and abandoned seaside villas of Kep, Cambodia, a small town near the border with Vietnam.  These villas were coastal retreats for French colonists and Cambodian royals in the years before the war.  Tragically, the genocidal Khmer Rouge reserved their most fierce hatreds for the Vietnamese, the Cambodian elite, and the French.  During Cambodia’s prolonged hell of civil war, the villas became battlefields and Kep was abandoned to chaos. 

Peace has come to Kep, but the crowds have not yet returned.  A graceful palm-lined boulevard along the beach is empty and potholed.  Cows graze in the dining rooms of grand old colonial mansions.  Only a handful of new homes have been built.  In Cambodia’s more well-known destinations, the scars of war have been concealed by new development, but the destruction of Kep still feels recent and raw.

Today, Kep is slowly rising from the ashes.  The atmosphere that attracted the French in the first place is stronger than ever.  Graceful green hills give way to the sparkling blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand, where brightly painted fishing skiffs sail between blue misted islands.  The fishermen supply local restaurants with fresh shrimp, fish, squid and crab, all available at unbelievably low prices.

Several new hotels have opened on the hillside bordering Kep National Park.  The most popular is Veranda Natural Resort, which boasts luxuries like hot-water and 24 hour electricity.  The Canadian owners have poured money into marketing with great success; bungalows that once went for $4 a night now cost $20. 

Veranda is a pleasant spot, but my pick for a romantic getaway in Kep is Le Bout de Monde, the first guesthouse to open on the hill and still the most atmospheric.  The bamboo bungalows are rickety, the staff barely speak English and large geckos patrol the veranda, but there is a graceful elegance to the simplicity.  The bed sheets are fine cotton, flowers line the garden paths and fresh-baked bread with homemade jam and delicious coffee is served on fine china in the morning.  Very few travelers stay in Kep for more than a day or two, but Le Bout de Monde is the sort of place best experienced at leisure, with enough time to soak in the peaceful rhythms of the days.  At only $10 for the private bungalows, why not just open a good book and let the days and nights float by. 

 The food at Le Bout de Monde is quite simply the best I have ever encountered.  Order fish with tamarind sauce and the shy young waiter will sprint down to his moto-bike and return 5 minutes later with a flopping sea bream for his sister to prepare.  Lightly wok-fried with young onions and local peppercorns, the fish is so succulent that even refined eaters are sure to lick their fingers.  One fish is enough for two people and costs all of $4.50. 

I heard about Le Bout de Monde from a French traveler, and indeed, the only other guests during the 4 nights I stayed there were either French or Belgian.  I can hardly blame them for keeping the secret to themselves.

If you go –

Getting to Kep is easier than ever.  Comfortable buses leave twice daily from Phnom Penh and any guesthouse or hotel can arrange tickets.  The bus stops at Kep Market, but it’s best to ask the driver to let you out at Kep Beach, a few hundred meters beyond the white mermaid statue.  From here, local moto drivers will run you up the hill to Veranda or Le Bout de Monde.

If coming from the West, first get to Kampot, then take a taxi or moto on to Kep.  The road is fairly good and the countryside picturesque.  Motos cost $3. 

If you call ahead for reservations at Le Bout de Monde, be patient and speak clearly.  The staff is shy about speaking English, but eager to please.  The number is 011 996 980. 

The countryside around Kep was sympathetic to the Khmer Rouge even after the U.N. sponsored elections of the mid ‘90s.  In 1993 guerillas kidnapped and murdered three backpackers who were riding the train near town.  The area is now completely safe, much more so than tourist towns like Sihanoukville, but the people are poor.  Don’t tempt trouble by leaving valuables lying around. 

Looking for a little excitement after relaxing in Kep?

Head down the coast to the boom town of Sihanoukville.